Dengue, Streetfood, Motorcycles and Hipsters

by Simon Hofstede, 17.01.2019
The AMBICA design prototype in the Intensive Care Unit (ICU). The prototype was a non-working device to evaluate usability for health workers.
(photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)

Last summer, I went to Vietnam to do research with an innovative medical device for better clinical monitoring and management of dengue patients. Follow me on a typical day in bustling Ho Chi Minh City and discover some of my most memorable experiences.

It’s 6.30 a.m. when my alarm goes off. Today, it seems the rooster that usually wakes me up is still asleep. I dress up and head to Thai Binh Market, a fresh food market in the Pham Ngu Lao area. That is where I always go to buy fruit, of which there is plenty. My senses are immediately awakened by the noises of the streets, the smells of Phở, fresh vegetables and whatever is on sale at the market. Markets are very interesting; there is chaos and a lively atmosphere. Today, a toddler holding a crab with a leash – as if it was a dog – stands out. Released from a tiny container the crab was now confined to the length of the rope, the toddler unaware of the crab’s miserable condition.
The stand I often buy fruit from at Thai Binh Market. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Vendors at the market, seen from behind boxes. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
On the way back I see people in the park playing badminton, running, exercising on funny looking machines and doing something similar to Super Kondi. It is like this every morning, it seems like the Vietnamese are very active and early risers. I prepare muesli with the fruit I just bought, yoghurt from the supermarket and homemade granola my girlfriend gave me be before I left Switzerland– it was a lot so I still have some. I forgot my moka pot in Zurich so I have to buy coffee on the way to the Oxford University Research Unit (OUCRU), the research institution that is hosting me. Around 7.45am I get a cappuccino at my favorite coffee place. For coffee lovers Vietnam is perfect; especially in Ho Chi Minh where there is a somewhat hipster coffee scene.
I book a Grab bike on my phone – this is basically Uber with motorbikes, something widely used in south-east Asia – to bring me to the Hospital of Tropical Diseases, next to OUCRU. The driver finds me quickly, I am very tall and therefore easy to find. He hands me a green Grab helmet that is way too small for me, but I wear it and hope we have a safe ride. I hop on the back of the motorbike with the coffee in my hand and off we go through the crazy traffic of the city. I have never seen this many motorbikes on the road, they never stop and not honking is not normal.

I make it safely to the office without spilling the coffee – I managed to drink it when the traffic lights were red. It’s now 8.15 and I am the first to arrive. We are planning a study with an innovative medical device for body fluid monitoring in dengue fever patients called AMBICA. The device was developed by the Mobile Health Systems Lab (MHSL) at ETH Zurich. I am here to coordinate the work that needs to be done in Vietnam and in Switzerland in order to get the approval to begin our research. Later, I will be responsible for data collection and analysis as part of my master thesis. During the course of the morning my coworkers order bubble tea ask me if I want a cup too. In Vietnam everybody loves bubble tea and there are many companies selling it. It is usually black tea with milk, ice, loads of sugar and jelly bubbles you have to catch with the wide drinking straw that comes with it. Having given it a try a couple of times already I actually start liking it too! Back to work: bubble tea in one hand, keyboard in the other.
This is what it looks like on the back of a Grab driver. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
The main entrance of the hospital for tropical diseases. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Near the entrance of the Orthopaedics hospital – which is just behind the hospital for tropical diseases – crutches and other stuff that a patient may need are sold. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
For lunch, everybody gathers in the break room. The Vietnamese are sociable and very kind. I always get to try local specialties as people are happy to share their food; and I am of course extremely happy to try. From my side I have brought Toblerone as a dessert and share it with everybody at the table.

In the afternoon, I give a workshop to nurses and doctors to gather insights about the usability of a mockup of the device. The aim is to receive feedback in terms of the design and usability of the device, in order to implement the necessary improvements. The workshop goes very well: a lot of feedback is received and loads of Swiss chocolate is eaten by the attendees.
It’s around 5 p.m. when I open the Grab app to book a driver to bring me home. “Sorry, our drivers are busy!” says the app… rush-hour, as always. I get home at some point later. Tonight I am going for a swim at a public swimming pool with my Vietnamese buddies, although we usually do a street-workout at the park. I buy the entrance ticket, get dressed… On my way to the swimming pool someone from the staff says I’m not allowed to enter the pool with this type of swimsuit and I should buy a different one at the shop by the entrance. I’m a bit confused as these shorts are perfectly fine back at home. Considering my size, finding something that fits me would be hard. Finally, I end up with fluorescent yellow-greenish speedos and a yellow swimming cap. I get admitted to the pool and everyone stares at me, but I convince myself that it must be because I am a very tall foreigner rather than because of my ridiculous attire.
An, the leader of the group I joined for street workout. In the background you can see others doing push-ups. Boys and girls participate at the workouts, usually they meet every night during the workweek. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Food vendor near the river where many local youngsters enjoy the views of the skyline and date. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Street food at a crossroad. Com Tam is broken rice, usually served with meat and fresh vegetables like cucumber and tomato. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Vietnamese streetfood is famous and delicious. I find it interesting to observe how the food is cooked and how life is around all the food stalls. This particular street is famous for its variety of dishes being served. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
The result. I don't know the name but it was very tasty. Fresh herbs like basil are often part of Vietnamese dishes. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Another food stall on the same street. Banh Xeo – “Vietnamese pancake”– was prepared here among meat on the grill. I liked the way this lady was smiling behind the flames. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
I buy a smoothie from her basically every night, she knows I want no sugar and no condensed milk by now. Although I always ask, she doesn’t want to make me a “frequent customer discount”. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
After the swim, we all go for dinner together and have a so called “hot pot”. My friends show me how to prepare and then eat from the pot. A lot of goat meat and vegetables go in it and we take pieces out using our chopsticks… and then comes the goat brain. I first thought they were fooling me but no, we are eating an actual goat brain. They put the whole thing in the pot and tell me I should really try it. I take a spoon and fish out a bit of goat brain, and it tastes good! Before going home, like nearly every night, I stop by the lady that makes fresh fruit smoothies on the street. At 11 p.m. I’m probably already asleep… ah no wait, there is a karaoke singing night on the street and the speakers are very loud. Karaoke is very popular in Vietnam, there are many specialized venues and singers performing with their speakers in front of restaurants on the streets.
This incredible experience full of surprises would not have been possible without the support of the ETH Global R4D seed grant, the ETH travel grant, Prof. Walter Karlen, Dr. Louise Thwaites, Kanika Dheman and the people at OUCRU Vietnam. I am truly thankful for their support!
I had to modify the casing of AMBICA and found a workshop with tools. I had a very fun afternoon in that workshop and I was stoked by the kindness of these people. I sat with them for some time as the rain poured down, showing pictures of Switzerland which they enjoyed . (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Subtractive manufacturing: When I saw the plastic melting I thought the casing would be destroyed, but it turned out to be ok. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Final works on the device using a file. I was not allowed to use the electrical saw to cut the material, but I took care of the precision work. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
The black teeth of this old lady caught my eye so I asked if I could take a picture. She smiled gently but just enough to show her teeth. I like the way they match the ribbon holding her hat. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
Young hipsters in the streets of Ho Chi Minh. They were having a photoshooting themselves so I asked if I could take a shot too. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)
A very interesting building with restaurants and shops on Nguyen Hue street. (photo credit: ETH Zurich/Simon Hofstede)

About the author

Simon Hofstede is a Student in Health Sciences and Technology with a focus in Medical Technology. Simon’s main interests are the interplay of design and technology in the medical world, as well as healthcare solutions for low resource settings. Outside his busy study schedule Simon has played elite volleyball, representing Switzerland in international competitions. In his remaining free time, he enjoys travelling and capturing his experiences with his camera.